The Great Bánh Mì Hunt: Sun Ta Tofu and Bánh Mì Deluxe
Two South End Seattle spot duke it out – neither lose; we win.
If there’s a hill I’d die on, it’s that a bánh mì is the perfect sandwich. Even in its most basic form, a bánh mì is elevated – spicy, earthy, rich… A complex profile made up of simple ingredients. A sandwich for anyone and everyone.
Seattle’s South End has a good selection of bánh mì shops, and to kick off what probably will be an infrequent look at the sandwich that rules them all, we check out Sun Ta Tofu and Bánh Mì Deluxe.
To address what may be an elephant in the room, Sun Ta Tofu is not a tofu-exclusive spot. They have a large vegetarian selection, for sure, but there are plenty of animal proteins to choose from, too.
Now, it may sound like a small thing, but Sun Ta Tofu’s streamlined matrix menu is a godsend. You pick your flavor profile from the horizontal axis – pork belly, chicken, tofu, etc. – and, from the vertical axis, a serving vessel. Bread, noodle bowl, or rice bowl. A helpful, concrete-sequential tool for those with decision paralysis.
As for the sandwiches, what sets them apart is their clean flavors. The vegetables in my meatball bánh mì were crisp and fresh, and created a potent balance with the protein. I’m perfectly fine with big flavors, but here the sum is very much made up of its distinct parts. A simple complexity at its best, where the vegetables didn’t play second fiddle.
The bread could have stood to be a little crustier, but overall, San Ta Tofu serves up a top-tier bánh mì. It’s one for those in search of something lighter.
Address: 6061 Martin Luther King, Jr. Way S.
Bánh Mì Deluxe – a longtime standby in the Digest’s editorial room – takes more of a maximalist approach to the sandwich. All non-vegetarian bánh mìs come topped with pate in addition to your chosen meat, and the jalapeño distribution is generous. For those in search of a spicy bánh mì, Deluxe should always be in the running.
Doing a one-for-one comparison between the two shops is hard, since their meatball sandwiches are pretty different – Deluxe uses a more robust tomato sauce, though their eponymous sandwich has a similar-ish profile, with enough pork to play in the same sandbox. Pork belly and cured pork dominate the palate, with an ample serving of cucumber cooling down the jalapeños. There are a lot of flavors at play, all good, but it’s also a far cry from Sun Ta Tofu’s lighter touch. Which style is better is entirely subjective, though I will say Deluxe’s baguette has a mite better bite.
One additional point for Deluxe: It houses Boss Tea, which offers a large selection of beverages. Their Passion Guava with lychee is refreshing and pairs exceedingly well with a spicy sandwich.
Address: 6408 Martin Luther King, Jr. Way S.
So…
Honestly, they’re both good spots worthy of (at least) a visit. They’re also right across the road from each other – a three-minute walk – so you get an excellent excuse for a bánh mì bang-bang.
And, it’s worth noting that you can walk out of either place with two sandwiches for less than $15, tip included. Tasty and thrifty, a fine combination.