The Lake Louise Hikes in Banff, Canada
And dog sledding in the summer, too.
It takes a particular type of perversity to get up at 4:45 a.m. and drive to a crowded parking lot just to go for a hike. At Lake Louise, that kind of deprivation is not only suggested, it’s required. By 5:30, the majority of parking spots will be occupied – some by hikers and others by photographers seeking to capture the sunset’s reflection on the glacial lake.
The Lake Louise trail set is large, with the Lake Agnes Teahouse hike being the most popular. At 4.5 miles round-trip (7 km), it’s doable for most, but it’s worth noting that it is a steep climb. Elevation gain is 1,300 feet (400 meters), and slaloming between walkers keeps you on your toes. (More on the eponymous teahouse below.)
A better, albeit somewhat more challenging hike is the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse trail. Measuring in at a 8.6 miles round-trip (13.84 km) and a 1,938 feet (590 meters) elevation gain, it’s a rocky trail requiring you to traverse a few narrow cliffs. You won’t have to run around as many people, but there is plenty of horse manure to jump over. The last mile or so of the trail – after you reach the teahouse – is not maintained, and is rather unforgiving.
Setting aside the bragging rights you get from a longer hike, the views from Plain are quite spectacular, and not just those of Lake Louise. Look over in the distance when you hear rumbles, and you will likely witness some small, striking avalanches. It is worth noting that the trail itself is safe between June and October, but is closed during the rest of the year because of local landslides.
As for the teahouses, they are run the way they were built to be run a hundred-plus years ago: Without electricity, and with everything cooked and baked by hand. The Six Glaciers teahouse serves next-level bread, and the PBJ is highly recommended. A good mix of protein and carbs that gives a much-needed spark to carry you over to the next teahouse.
Because extending the hike to Lake Agnes is worth it. You walk halfway back to Lake Louise and cross through a fork to make your way toward the second location. It’s a semi-decent ascent, but the view of Lake Louise is a good reward in and of itself. (And, if you’re lucky, you might find the sunglasses I lost on the way – free Goodr aviators for you!) We didn’t see any grizzlies during our Banff trip, but this part of the trail showed recent tracks – a good reminder of why you are required to carry bear spray.
Over at Lake Agnes, the go-to pick at the crowded teahouse is the chocolate cake, which is of the old-school North European variety. What we call “German chocolate cake” in the US is not really German, at least not in my experience.
That is what I consider the real thing. Not too sweet, not too bitter, with a perfectly cake-y bite. Again, something to boost the energy for the long descent back to Lake Louise.
Overall, the modified circle is right at ten miles (sixteen kilometers) if you count the walk to the parking lot. I’d add a good hour for the two tea-house stops, making the experience clock in at six hours. Of course, seeing you need to get out there at an unholy hour, you still have a lot of time left for hurkle-durkling, so chalk it down to a day of a variety of experiences.
And, finally, a shout-out to the guy who called me a “bad ass” for hiking in sandals1. It ranks up there with my middle-school teacher complimenting me on my handwriting. (She had me mixed up with someone else.)
Doggie Paddle: Snowy Owl Dog Carting Tour & White Wolf Rafting
I didn’t know summer-time dog sledding was a thing, but, as it turns out, it decidedly is. Known simply as “dog carting” – basically larger sleds on wheels – you can make a day of combining it with a white-water-rafting tour called the “Doggie Paddle” package.
I was initially worried about the condition of the dogs, but there is nothing to be concerned about there. They’re treated well – beyond well – and each of the two packs only goes out on a single trek early in the day. And they very clearly love it.
Before the ride, you get to play with the dogs; after, you can unharness them and feed them. If you like dogs, it’s a fun experience.
The white water rafting portion – set later in the day – is what you’d expect it to be. A guided tour down a fairly slow river. There is a handful of holes to get the adrenaline pumping, but at a two out of six difficulty grade, it’s not a risky endeavor, which suits me fine.
You pay $285 CAD for the package, and that includes all the equipment – more information on White Wolf’s website.
A Quick Shout-out to Truffle Pigs Bistro
Dining options around Emerald Lake – which is worth the stop – are limited, but luckily, the nearby Truffle Pigs Bistro has some excellent food.
The spot delivers fresh and creative takes on bar fare, and my fish tacos were excellent. Lightly battered with no excessive oil, served with a well-seasoned Spanish rice.
Weirdly – or maybe not weird at all – the “Purple Burger” was the star of the show. The beet-based burger managed to be both light and hearty, which is quite the feat.
Find them at 9GV5+RX Field, British Columbia, and on the web.
The Pose: Photography for the Sosh
This was (more or less) the pose du jour in and around Banff and, presumably, beyond. Or, at least, it was for the kids, most of whom did not seem too appreciative of my take on it. I didn’t see them have the bad assery to get into the water, though.
The colours are otherworldly.