Sonora Carne Asada House: Take II
Plus, Victrola Coffee and Sugar Bakery for a morning bang-bang.
Our Return to Sonora Carne Asada House
First, a quick word on our legacy score chart: The erstwhile-Tortillaphilia ranking we follow at the Digest – originally established in 2007 – goes from zero to five stars, with an important caveat: Only De Leon’s in Spokane was to receive the perfect score.1 Those were the rules, and today, a four-mushroom score remains the de facto ceiling.
Why the need to clarify? Our inbox figuratively blew up after our enthusiastic write-up of Hillman City’s Sonora. Why only a meager four mushrooms, when five were there for the taking? It’s a fair assertion, enough for us to re-evaluate our scoring metrics and return to Sonora earlier than initially planned.
Now, the main takeaway from our last visit remains, and Sonora’s meat-forward focus is demonstrably a step ahead of most. Some may say two steps, and they wouldn’t be incorrect.
To wit:
I gave the Carmelo a try – simple, pared-back tacos with meat and cheese, where the protein is the differentiator. I have no issues with boilerplate charred carne asada, but Sonora dishes up tender, medium-rare chunks of steak with a generous layer of cheese. A top-quality Philly cheesesteak in taco form is an apt comparison.
The previously mentioned salsa bar comes into play if we continue down that route. If Philly sandwiches come topped with caramelized onions and peppers, Sonora’s bountiful selection of pickled onions, avocado, and salsas allows for a parallel take. The Carmelo is simple in its base form, and it strictly doesn’t need to be more than that. If you want to dress it up, the salsa bar offers options. I believe it was Burger King that crooned “have it your way,” but it might as well have been Sonora.
I’m going to go as far as to say Caramelo is a top-tier taco, good enough that, yes, it’s time to break out…
… the five-out-of-five score. When it feels right, it feels right.
And if you need to cap off the meal with a maximalist sweet horchata, you’ve got the “de Fresa.” The ice cream, cream, and strawberry come in an attached container – dump them into the horchata for a root beer float equivalent. It’s hard to argue with the end result.
Sonora, then. Great food, great service, great experience. A can’t-miss spot for anyone who enjoys protein-forward tacos.
5901 Rainier Ave S, Seattle • Map • Instagram
Victrola Coffee Roasters – Capitol Hill
Switching gears, let’s talk coffee and give Victrola an ever-so-quick glance. Of Seattle’s local chains, Caffe Vita, Ladro, etc., Victrola might be the one that eeks out on top. It’s not necessarily the best coffee in Seattle – it’s awfully hard to top the less chain-y Storyville – but it’s one that holds its own. I’ve heard Victrola mentioned with some reverence by Norwegian baristi, which is a rare accolade.
This is the type of place that takes its coffee seriously. Ask for a cappuccino, and the barista will assume you want a six-ounce cup. A proper cup, at that – you can obviously get coffee to go, but I appreciate how they reached for the non-paper option. The cappuccino is served dry, giving it just the kick the traditional breakfast-time coffee should have. It’s a quality that sets it apart, maybe not by miles, but certainly by a few yards.
If you want a Cap Hill bang-bang, it’s worth hitting up Sugar Bakery. Their chocolate croissants are next level, and it’s just a block away. It technically offers seating, but only minimally so. Expect to take your goods to go.
Victrola: 310 E Pike St, Seattle • Map • Web • Instagram
Sugar Bakery: 320 E Pine St, Seattle • Map • Web
Related Coffee Read
Merch for the People!
Don’t just read Awesomeness – wear it! This distinguished publication proudly features two official shirts – or magnets, stickers, or whatever medium you can think of: The Hallgrrrl and Zune. Why those? For one, the Hallmark channel and Riotgrrrl are, as I’ve said before, the natural combination. And, who doesn’t love the Zune?
Go shop at The Better Taster Boutique for only the finest goods.
We did, in fact, routinely submit Mario De Leon as Spokane’s top Spiritual Leader in alt-weekly The Inlander’s annual “Best of…” I’m still aghast he didn’t make it into the top three. At that time, we used Zelda hearts for Tortillaphilia’s scoring, but have since switched to Super Mario in what I like to think of as a tribute to Mario De Leon.